The history of morning rolls, including a recipe for making your own | Scotsman Food and Drink (2024)

In every newsagents, corner shop and petrol station across Glasgow (and elsewhere across Scotland) you will find freshlybaked crispy morning rolls, probably piled up on top of a misused ice cream freezer.

McGhee’s bakery, one of the biggest producers of these rolls, sells over a staggering twomillion every week. So this is a bread produced on a massive industrial scale.

McGhee’s infact produce this crispy roll specifically for the Glasgow market; elsewhere in Scotland theirrecipes for morning rolls differ.

Glasgow morning rolls are very light and airy, and very, very crispy on the outside. Whathelps to make them so crispy is the crumby coating they are given; this is actually ricecones, a rough textured rice flour.

The likes of Morton’s rolls are cut by hand producing oddshapes, which makes them all the more charming. They are often very well fired, and this ishow some people prefer them.

Some of them are so black visitors to the city must wonderwhy they are on sale as it looks like someone has made a co*ck up.

They are also baked sothey touch each other, forming a kissing crust.

When you tug the rolls apart there is a weesoft titbit inside that you can nibble on.

These morning rolls are central to life in Glasgow and other parts of Scotland. They are eaten at breakfast or made intosandwiches for a packed lunch.

Morning rolls must be eaten fresh as they go into rigourmortis by the end of the day.

They are essential for the ‘hot filled rolls’ served at almostevery café and snack van, filled with the usual suspects of square sausage, or bacon, orblack pudding, with a fried egg to make a doubler, and perhaps a potato scone.

It may notbe the healthiest thing in the world, but it is a wonderful and well loved tradition.

Another favourite way for kids to eat them is for a snack after school, squished down and spread withbutter so thick it leaves teethmarks.

After massively scaling down industrial quantities I have a recipe which is impressivelysimilar to the rolls you get in Glasgow.

I have always wondered how they get them so lightand airy and it turns out the answer is chemicals.

Morning rolls often containsomething called IREKS Voltex, a multi-purpose bread improver that is used to iron out themillions of variable factors which can affect bread making.

If you produce two million rolls a week, you begin to understand why such a bakery wouldtake measures to ensure they provide a consistent product.

On the other hand the rolls atsome bakeries are batch fermented for up to 16 hours, meaning this bread has flavour; it isnot a bread that is ready within an hour from start to finish like some other mass producedbread.

This recipe is for all the people who are from Glasgow but now live somewhere else,and might happen to miss this great Glasgow institution.

Recipe for Glasgow Crispy Morning Rolls

The history of morning rolls, including a recipe for making your own | Scotsman Food and Drink (1)

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You need to start these the night before you want to eat them, however they last well andtoast very well too.

Ingredients:

• 500g Canadian strong white bread flour (or a flour with a high gluten content, i.e. at least14 per cent)

• 30g lard or vegetable shortening

• 10g sugar

• 10g salt

• 5g fast action yeast

• 400ml cold water

For the Coating

• 50g plain flour

• 50g rice cones/flour

Method:

1Rub the fat into the flour in a large mixing bowl. Stir in the sugar, salt and yeast.

2Now pour inthe water and mix until it is all incorporated. This is a wet dough but when you are usingbread flour with such a high gluten content it can easily take that much water withoutbecoming sloppy.

3Remove the dough from the bowl and knead it for 1 minute until the dough has just becomesmooth with all the ingredients thoroughly combined.

4 With such a long ferment you don’tneed to knead it too much. Put the dough back into the bowl and cover loosely with clingfilm. Put the bowl in the refrigerator to leave it to ferment for 12 - 16 hours.

5 The next morning combine the rice cones and plain flour for the coating. Take a large bakingsheet and dust it liberally with the coating mixture (make sure to leave enough to coat therolls).

6Empty the dough on to a work surface which has been liberally dusted with therice/flour coating mixture. This is where a large silicone spatula or scraper is useful.

7 Nowusing a dough scraper divide the dough into 8 pieces. Don’t worry if it is sticky or messy asthese rolls aren’t supposed to look perfect.

8 Dust your fingers with the coating mixture and take each piece of dough, one at a time, anddip it into the coating mixture and place it on the baking sheet. They don’t need to be in theshape of a roll but try to keep in the air that is inside the dough.

9 Do this with each piece,placing them near to each other so that when they rise they will bake together. Despite thestickiness of this dough the coating mixture works wonders for stopping the dough fromsticking to everything. Leave them to rise for 1 - 2 hours or until doubled in size.

10 Bake in a 250˚C preheated oven on a high shelf for 15 - 20 minutes or until the tops aredark. The rolls should be well fired for the right flavour.

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The history of morning rolls, including a recipe for making your own | Scotsman Food and Drink (2024)

FAQs

What is the history of morning rolls? ›

The idea of a “morning” roll is equally old, and not that particularly Scottish in its heritage. These were simply the first items baked in the oven in the morning, they baked quicker than bread so were ready to go out for sale sooner.

What is the history of the bread roll? ›

The bread roll emerged out of the tradition of baking small bread loaves. These gradually became smaller and became known variously across Europe as a bap or a bun, and then simply as a roll or as a small bread (brötchen in Germany, brötli in Switzerland).

What is the history of the Scottish BAPS? ›

Baps hail from Scotland and are a staple of the region, a favored morning bun among the Scottish. The first recorded history of the use of the word bap is believed to be in the 1500s, so baps have certainly been a part of the culinary lexicon for some time.

What is the history of the Parker House roll? ›

They were invented at the Parker House Hotel in Boston, during the 1870s. The story of their creation has several variations, but they all involve an angry pastry cook throwing unfinished rolls into the oven, which results in their dented appearance.

Where did the breakfast roll originate? ›

It has been argued that the breakfast roll became a national dish in Ireland during the Celtic Tiger economic boom of the 1990s and 2000s, becoming synonymous with "Breakfast Roll Man", the archetypal sub-contractor who was busy with construction work and needed sustenance on the move, before the bursting of the Irish ...

What is the origin of the morning bun? ›

Origins of the Morning Bun

The morning bun has its roots in traditional French pastry-making techniques. It is believed to have originated in the renowned bakeries of France, where bakers sought to create a pastry that combined the buttery richness of a croissant with the sweet, spiced flavors of a cinnamon roll.

What is the history origin of bread? ›

An early leavened bread was baked as early as 6000 BC in southern Mesopotamia, cradle of the Sumerian civilization, who may have passed on the knowledge to the Egyptians around 3000 BC. The Egyptians refined the process and started adding yeast to the flour.

Why is a roll called a roll? ›

Some of the words for a small round loaf of bread are Germanic in origin – "batch," which is also used more generally to describe a group of small objects, may come from "bachen," or "bake", says Robinson. "Roll" comes from French and would have arrived with Norman invaders later.

What is the difference between a roll and a bun? ›

Rolls are typically proofed and baked closer together for a softer, “pull apart” result. This makes them great for dipping or eating alongside other food. On the other hand, buns are proofed with space between them, which makes them crustier.

What is Scotland most famous for? ›

Serene loch views, enchanting castles, and Scotch whisky are some of the most famous things about this Celtic country. Yet there's so much more to see and do. And on a visit to this proud nation, you can explore Scotland's surprises and charms for yourself.

What is a roll called in Scotland? ›

All around the UK, from North Wales, north Norfolk and the northwest to northern Scotland and the East Midlands, you'll often hear a bread roll called a cob.

What does bun mean in Scottish? ›

While 'bun' means 'bread roll' in the northern British Isles, the Scots use the term to mean a very rich fruitcake, Blaxter said. Alternatively, 'bun' can also refer to a diminutive version of a cupcake, minus the frosting.

What is a house roll? ›

: a roll made by folding half of a flat circular piece of dough over the other half.

Why are they called White House rolls? ›

The rolls got their name after someone had remarked that they were so good they could be offered at meals in the White House.

What is the history of yeast rolls? ›

The first comes from the Parker House Hotel that opened in Boston in 1854. Allegedly, a rankled baker tossed a batch of unfinished rolls into the oven. They came out with a distinct shape, a light interior, and a buttery exterior.

What is the history of Scottish oatmeal rolls? ›

While the exact origin of Scottish oatmeal rolls is not known, it's believed that they have been baked in Scotland for hundreds of years. In fact, oatmeal has been a staple food in Scotland since ancient times, and was once considered the food of peasants and soldiers.

Where do well-fired rolls come from? ›

The morning roll is an airy, chewy bread roll popular in Scotland. The well-fired roll is given a stronger flavour in its bulk fermentation and baked at a higher temperature, and has a dark crust. In Fife, a cabin biscuit or cabin roll (/ˈkeɪ.

What is a Sunday morning roll? ›

Inside has Smoked Salmon and Cream Cheese, Deep Fried, Topped with Eel Sauce and Spicy Mayo.

What is the history of hard roll? ›

Hard rolls are a version of Kaiser rolls made in New York State with an even crispier crust. They were renamed “hard rolls” during the First World War against Germany and its Kaiser, and the name stuck.

References

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